new blonding projectPosted 5 months, 1 week ago
One of my daughter's best friend has asked me to give her a balayage look. She has very long, curly, blonde hair, probably a level 8 and her lengths are very golden/a bit brassy, but all is virgin hair. Her hair is thick but fine, so I would like to be as gentle as possible. The picture she showed me looks like a rooted platinum ; her complexion is a bit golden, but more a beige gold, so I think a neutral platinum, rather than a very cool one would suit her. I also want to avoid any line of demarcation, so she can let it grow for some time (very low maintenance, she's a student).
I also wish to be gentle to her hair, so it stays as healthy as possible.
I am considering the following alternatives :
(1) open air balayage with Blondme clay and 30 volume (oe 20? I don't know), I would take rather not too thick sections, surface paint both sides and saturate the ends, and use some wrap; then tone with a violet-based toner,but, I have not much experience in balayaging (only on myself), so it would be a bit adventurous.
(2) foliyage with blondme clay and 7vol developper (1:2), I would then consider toning the hair left in between to tone down the golden hues, - that would take a very long time, as I remember te time spent highlighting my daughter's hair;
(3) do what some call "brazilian balayage" : take rather thick sections, weave, and use my hands and brush to apply bleach (clay bleach and 20 volume 1:2) and saturate, place in foil; this would also allow to tone down the hair left out separately.
As her hair is so light, I could also use highlift dye instead, as I have some level 12 highlights from Igora Royal tubes, which, from my experience on my eldest daughers and myself leave the hair in very good condition. It could replace bleach in the foilyage or brazilian balayage scenario.
So I'm hesitating - probably have too many different ways to tackle it; how would you tackle this? I tend to think the open-air balayage would be less time consuming and the most natural looking, with an easy grow out. the brazilian balayage is interesting if one wants some depth, which is a bit tricky in this situation, as her hair is so light.
Any thoughts welcome!
by vivienne StaffPosted 5 months, 1 week ago
I think 30 volume sounds a bit high, even for open air, unless you're really quick at applying. When I do bleach my own black hair, which is basically level 1, it takes about 45 minutes to apply when I'm doing relatively thin sections and by the time I'm done, the first sections are usually nearly a level 4-5. Now, levels 1 to 4 do happen pretty fast, but I'd still be a bit worried working on fine blonde hair.
I'm not super familiar with myself, but the general impression I've been told by stylist friends is that open air makes blending easier, but your results are less predictable and you get less lift, obviously. I think option 3 is a bit complicated and time consuming, so I think you'd need to do something similar to platinum carding, where you mix up different strengths of lightener and progress from lower to higher volume throughout the process to counteract the different processing times.
Posted 5 months, 1 week ago
Hi thank you so much for your response, actually, I've already used the Blondme clay, and it is quite gentle; I will switch to 25, but even with 40 volume, this powder does not go more than 3 levels of lift; this has been confirmed by professionals - of course, it also depends on the hair, each one lifting differently.
Posted 2 weeks, 2 days ago
oh by the way, the first time I did it with clay and open-air technique, but tis left a lot of warmth. Balayage does not give much control on the lift. So the second time, I used foils, and she is very happy with the result. https://www.instagram.com/p/CL1wFzlDFz3/
by MonsterDFgPosted 2 weeks, 2 days ago
Well the result is really good, well done.
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