color dissipating into base tones while dyeingPosted 10 months ago
hi everyone i was wondering if this has happened to anybody else and if they found out why/how to stop it..
i have had this happen before with blue-toned violets - the color kind of made a lot of little blue/turquoise dots on my hair. i have seen this happen in the tub with pre-mixed toner as well, so i don't think it's (exclusively) caused by some sort of residue on my hair itself. today i tried to mix a warm grey by diluting directions neon blue with some conditioner and hair mask (could hair mask be the culprit?) and some orange (pink carnation + bright daffodil) and the dye made these turquoise and yellow splotches on my hair again, as you may be able to see in the photo (used the dye on dry hair, last wash yesterday - culprits?). the turquoise ones are still visible now after i've washed it all out.
aaaalso i'm going crazy trying to get that perfect grey, i made a very light mixture and it turned way too blue again, either too blue or doesn't really show up. could i try a sort of overlay with a lot of conditioner + orange?
by vivienne StaffPosted 10 months ago
You might need to use a conditioner with less silicone in it. Hair masks tend to have a lot of it, and the dye might just have trouble mixing evenly into it. If you see the specks in the bowl, you can usually let it sit for a while (hours) and it'll eventually dissolve into the mix, but that's a bit of a hassle compared to just using a lighter shampoo. If you can find a silicone-free conditioner, that would be ideal, as silicones can block dye absorption. It's usually not a huge issue with darker colours, but you can get unevenness if you're working with a very light pastel.
One more thing to consider is that, at least for the yellow, you might have be highlighting some unevenness in your base that you otherwise can't see unless you tone it. One of the ways to spot this kind of unevenness is to run a UV light over your hair, and it'll highlight the areas that are just slightly darker than other. You can either lighten them some more or just use a slightly darker mix on them.
As for toning down the blue, I'd personally let it fade down before trying any orange, because you risk some areas going green. In my experience, I sometimes start with a very steely blue grey and it fades down to a slightly more neutral tone with a few washes. If it's not fading down, then I'd try a strand test with an orange or pink toner.
Posted 10 months ago
hey, thanks for the answer,
i should have specified beforehand, my conditioner and hair masks are all free of silicones and polyquats. my silver shampoo has some polyquats but i hadn't used it in a while.
hah! :D my base is so uneven i don't even need to use an uv light to see it (very bright light though) :D what this usually does in my case is that the more porous hair turns slightly darker and grabs onto the blue more, but i don't understand how it could lead to this kind of color dissipation? i know it looks as if the yellow and turquoise follow strands of hair in the photo but that's really just because i tried to dissolve the splotchiness by rubbing it down..
aaaagh i'm about to give up on silver, the blue tones are too different for me to be able to hope to tone them down evenly, some of the lighter areas will be orange before the rest is the grey i want and i don't think tedious spot toning is the answer, since i would have to redo the whole thing every week and going back in with splot bleaching is out of the question i have too much breakage already -.- oh well i might still get better at bleaching my roots evenly some day :D
by vivienne StaffPosted 10 months ago
I think the spottiness on the turquoise has more to do with the dye not fully dissolving into the conditioner. If you dilute extremely dark or pigmented colours with a lot of conditioner, it's easy to have this happen unless you do a stepwise dilution, where you add a little bit of conditioner, mix thoroughly, then add a bit more, mix some more, etc. It's more common with really silicone-heavy conditioner, but it can happen if the viscosity of the dye and conditioner just don't mesh well. Sometimes, if you look closely at the mixture, you can see fine specks or streaks of blue in the mix, and those areas will be more pigmented when you apply the mix.
For the yellow, it looks more like that region is a bit too dark to tone, because it's got a slightly green tinge to it, so it seems like it's picking up the blue, but just isn't going the colour you want. Of course, what I said above about uneven mixing could also apply here and you're just getting a streak where you have less pigment instead of more pigment and it's just not toning well.
Now, if it's a purely porosity issue and the mix itself is evenly mixed, you might have some luck applying over towel-dried hair, since the water will help even the porosity slightly. Personally, I don't love doing this since I feel like it increases the risk of dripping.
I will say, if you have a lot of unevenness now, it is going to be pretty tricky to get an even silver, since, as you mentioned, there's nothing to do except lighten more or spot treat, both of which are very fiddly. When I do something like this, I usually mix up a darker mix with diluted Adore Blue Black and just paint that over the portions that aren't toning like I want, and it just gives me a blend of grey and muted blue. I find that this fades out a bit more evenly, although it never gets to a fully on even silver.