Advice on bleach and tonerby KbushaPosted 1 year, 10 months ago
I have a wedding reception coming up and in an effort to keep costs low, i would really like to color my hair at home. I have about 1inch or so new growth (medium brown natural color) i am trying to achieve a very light blonde (platinum) i previously had my hair professionally colored and highlighted so the majority of my hair is the perfect color and just needs a root touch up. Underneath though has an orangey tone which dying has not been able to brighten or get rid of. I have never toned my hair so i have been researching. Everythinf so far says to use powder bleach with 20v developer followed by a cool toner. I plan to leave the highlighted areas that i like alone and onlt do the underneath orange parts and roots. Im just wondering what products you might recommend and steps or method ypu might take. Thank you! Picture below!
by vivienne StaffPosted 1 year, 10 months ago
Personally, I'd do your roots and the orange touch-up in two separate processes. Your roots will lift more more quickly, and the orange bits may be staining that won't lift at all. If you do them at the same time, I'm not sure they'd both lift at the same rate, and you'd risk either your roots going too light or the orange bits not changing enough.
As for products, I personally like the Ion Bright White Creme Lightener at Sally's for my black hair. I'm not super familiar with natural blonde toners, but I'd probably recommend against Wells T14 or T18. They are popular, but they are quite harsh and also meant for either a silver or a white colour rather than a platinum blonde. It's very likely that they'd get into your lengths and leave some areas silvery in a way that will look uneven. Look for a toner for a neutral level 10 blonde, rather than something for white or silver.
Now, since your roots are fairly long, it will also be quite tricky to avoid banding. The first quarter- to half-inch of your roots will usually lift much faster than the rest, so you may end up with a gradient from white to orange. Generally, you want to let everything else process for a while, then do the section closest to your scalp. Exact timing depends from person to person, so I'd strand test if possible. Another technique I've seen is to use a higher volume of developer for the region further from your head to let it process faster, but it also has its own level of difficulty, as any overlap section with your previously bleached hair may go much lighter, creating a white band. It's up to you which method you want to try, but just keep in mind the potentially issues that may arise so you can have a back-up plan.
by BridgetSPosted 1 year, 10 months ago
in my experience, you can do the roots and the orange at the same time if you use foils and different mixtures for the two. I have already lightened orangey hair with 10 or 7 volume developper and bleach, it should work ok. but you need to use foils, fine weaves, apply the stronger mixture on natural roots and the other on the orange parts). If there are still orange parts after foiling you can go back and do them separately.
advantage is also if some parts have not lifted enough when you open them to check, you can use the blowdryer on the foils to help with the lightening process. there are some great videos of diy foils on youtube.
for toner, there are several possibilities : direct dyes in light violet shades (manic panic virgin snow seems to have good reviews), or demi-permanents like Wella Colour touch (/86, 10/69 etc...), all professional brands have toners (my daughters have also successfully tried the Schwarzkopf Igora expert mousse 9.5-1 and 9.5-12 very easy to use), and you can also use a strong violet shampoo like Fanola No Yellow. Good luck!
by foxyloxyPosted 1 year, 10 months ago
Agree with BridgetS, that was my experience too
by KbushaPosted 1 year, 10 months ago
Thank you for all of your advice! I ended up bleaching my roots and the orangey bottom with wella powder and 20v developer. I forst did the bottom as a test and it lifted great the roots and the orange growth so i went through and did the rest. I then used wella t10 toner and overall for doing it myself i am pleased with the results. It is still a more golden blonde and i think what im hoping for is more of an ashe blonde however it looks good and cohesive and my hair feels healthy my husband even remarked my hair is super soft and nice. I think i am light enough to use purple shampoo to cool some of the golden tones. Thanks for all your input and advice!
by BridgetSPosted 1 year, 10 months ago
you're welcome, thank you for the feedback! glad it turned out well!