Olaplexby ksiepierskiPosted 7 years, 4 months ago
Okay so there's this new product called Olaplex that the hair industry is absolutely freaking out about. It was developed by a few chemists, Dean Christal, Craig Hawker and Eric Pressly. The work these (idk if it's all of them or just a couple, not really sure) chemists are famous for involves helping to stop organs and transplants from being rejected by the body. It is a single molecule that they developed that claims that when added into any haircolor services, will absolutely prevent any breakage, that it links broken bonds in hair back together again. I don't know if this is permanent, or if it's a temporary thing like the PEC complex in the Tresemme Split Remedy line (that basically temporarily binds split ends back together).
Of course, I have my EXTREME doubts about this, it seems too good to be true. Dean said "I had a stylist Japanese relax a swatch of hair two times, then 40-volume bleach it, then perm it, and the hair was still in good condition. The control sample that had no Olaplex disintegrated halfway through the test".
So I don't know! I've tried emailing the company to find out more of the science behind it, as well as checked their website, their facebook page, read through others' posts on facebook on different hair pages like Behind The Chair, of the emails they received from Olaplex, and they are all so vague and don't go into any detail at all. The most useful/detailed information I've been able to find was an article on the BTC website. I'm terrible at summarizing (as I'm sure most of you know with all the novels I write on here lol), and I don't think you will be able to access the article if you don't have an account there, so I will just paste it here:
Olaplex Could (And Will) Change Everything http://i.imgur.com/pkDxVyu.jpg One curious man. Two chemists. One big question. Could you create a product that would never, ever break hair again while haircoloing…even at 40-volume?
Could It Be True? About a month ago, I got a frantic call from Tracey Cunningham while I was in Europe and she was in Dubai. She said, “Mary, call me back. I have to talk to you. I’ve just used a product that could change everything.” I love Tracey, but was sprinting a marathon of meetings that week in London. She was insanely busy as well, but when I didn’t call her back, she texted me the next day and then the next day. I called her and this is what she shared, “I’ve just used a product that gives me the superpower to do things I never thought were possible. It allows me to color more often, go lighter and double process the same day without any fear of breakage. Like, no breakage, Mary. I’ve used it on Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow and pretty much every client for the past month. I’m going through a liter of it a day! I’ve been blown away by what I’m seeing.”
And Tracey isn’t the only one. In fact, nearly every major celebrity salon in Beverly Hills and West Hollywood, including Guy Tang, Nine Zero One, Estilo, Goodform, Sally Hershberger and Chris McMillan all have their army of celebrity colorists testing this “secret” formula, which from all accounts, is no longer a secret anymore.
The Holy Grail of Haircolor It’s called Olaplex, and it just could be the holy grail for haircolor. To never break hair again is a huge claim, so Tracey gave me the guy’s name and number who created the product and the second I got off the line with Tracey, I called him. For the next two hours, Dean Christal spoke to me in a language of chemistry I didn’t understand, with one exception. The part I did comprehend is that the most world famous chemist from the polymer field of chemistry, with countless awards and patents to his name, who has nothing to do with hair, had created a new molecule that would link broken bonds in hair back together again. This molecule, he claims, when added into any haircolor services, will absolutely prevent any breakage. The two-hour chemistry lesson all boiled down to one simple idea—a hair coloist would never have to worry about destroying a client’s hair ever again. One simple molecule. One simple ingredient. Nothing simple about its effects. Imagine never breaking a client’s hair again. Imagine never stripping haircolor again.
One Curious Man. Two Curious Chemists. The Olaplex story, in Dean’s words: “I was working with a group of chemists for three years trying to develop a UV activated silicone that would stay in the hair for up to 25 washes. It worked beautifully 80 percent of the time, but 20 percent of the time, various wavelengths in the UVA range made it sticky. An Australian chemist working on the project suggested that I take a shot at meeting Craig Hawker at the Hawker Group at the University of California, Santa Barbara. He said Craig was a chemistry savant and the only one capable of coming up with the solution for our problem. I hung up the phone and immediately drove out to the university and unannounced, walked into Mr. Hawker’s office. We talked for four hours. Almost immediately, Craig came up with an idea for our perplexing UV activated chemistry, and he and I discussed what it would take to create the holy grail of the beauty industry—preventing damage to hair. Craig was intrigued with the idea of repairing hair and preventing chemical damage from occurring. Craig introduced me to Eric Pressly that evening, a PhD in materials, and when I returned the next day at 2 p.m., I was given my first batch of Olaplex. “Craig and Eric were both surprised that the industry had not created something like this,” Dean shared.
Thinking From the Outside…In Olaplex has now filled multiple worldwide patents. The work these chemists are famous for involves helping to stop organs and transplants from being rejected by the body. It’s life-saving work. Dean convinced Craig and Eric that helping women feel more beautiful was also life-saving work and just as important. Which it is. And now, the best chemistry from the best minds in medical polymer research has been offered to our industry to solve a problem that’s existed since the development of haircolor.
The Story Goes On Interestingly, the story gets even bigger than this (if that’s possible). It appears this molecule called Olaplex will also radically change the hair texturizing business as well, allowing a permanent wave to be done on the same day as color. Dean says, “I had a stylist Japanese relax a swatch of hair two times, then 40-volume bleach it, then perm it, and the hair was still in good condition. The control sample that had no Olaplex disintegrated halfway through the test. I knew at that point in time that Olaplex would completely change the way hair was chemically treated forever.”
“If you have ever had clients who worry about their hair breaking off from the coloring process, tell them, ‘Don’t worry, I use Olaplex!’ Not only does it help prevent breakage, my clients tell me that their hair feels stronger, silky and fuller as well. This is a brand new hair care product unlike any other, and it makes my job a heck of a lot less stressful!” —Tracey Cunningham
Idk, if this does somehow permanently link the broken bonds back together permanently, and the hair still feel normal and not crunchy/stiff like with that PEC complex BS, then this will change the hair world. It just seems wayyy too good to be true. I mean, what, so you could bleach someone's hair 8 times with 40 vol for an hour each application all in a single day and the hair would still be perfectly healthy? Or bleach already pale yellow hair with 40 vol for an hour in foils under a dryer and the hair would still be fine? Even if it does link the broken bonds back together, they still get broken in the first place, so is it a permanent link or just a bandaid? Despite the rave reviews on it, I am still highly, highly skeptical, it just sounds way too good to be true.
What do you all think? Have any of you tried it or know anyone who has?
Always clarify and demineralize your last cleansing before any chemical process to avoid adverse results or unstable chemical reactions! Remember that test strands can save you a world of headache, that protein damage is permanent, moisture is essential, you can use coconut oil as a lightener pre treatment to minimize protein reduction, and that Olaplex can reform broken disulfide bonds so long as they haven't already negatively paired, but it does not address protein or moisture.
by Wicked_PixiePosted 7 years, 4 months ago
I am also intrigued but sceptical. It only seems to promise no breakage, not no damage....
I did then what I knew then, & when I knew better, I did better.
— Maya Angelou
Posted 7 years, 4 months ago
Since this is the second thread about this stuff, I thought I'd look these guys up. Dean Christal is just a guy who makes his money off of patents and, from what I can tell, probably isn't all that familiar with the 'language of chemistry' himself. I'm willing to bet that he's probably funding the project but doesn't work all that closely with the ground-level research. Since there are patents going through now, I doubt that there will be any journal publications anytime soon.
Anyhow, Craig Hawker is definitely the guy with a reputation and a ton of well-cited publications and based on the papers I've read coming out of his lab, I have two guesses on how this stuff works.
- It's a small, organic molecule that similar in structure to your hair's keratin (or maybe not). After a peroxide treatment, it fills in the gaps in your hair and then application of the 'bond multiplier' (probably something to change the pH or maybe sensitizes the molecule to heat/light) assembles all the small, single molecules into a longer chain that get stuck in your hair and won't wash out.
- It's some sort of silicone-like material that also self-assembles, but coats the hair rather than penetrates it.
Anyhow, either way, I'm guessing that it won't make it so your hair can be processed indefinitely, since it relies on the fact that your hair still has enough keratin structure to actually hold in the small molecules. However, it might be able to extend the amount of times you can bleach/dye your hair and maybe reduce the waiting time, since you don't need to wait for the cuticle to tighten back up. In terms of how 'permanent' the process is, it's hard to tell. It's quite possible that it's stable in high pH and is resistant to detergents so that it won't break down with shampoo, but I'd be surprised and impressed if it was also completely UV stable.
EDIT: After looking at the bottles more closely, I'm guessing the self-assembly is peroxide-activated, which would make sense since Craig Hawker did a lot of his early work is on polymerization with radicals like peroxide. The second step probably stops the polymerization and/or helps inactivate the peroxide.
by Zoe_nwobhmPosted 7 years, 4 months ago
Oh @vivienne you did all the reading for me thanks! It is very smart, taking advantage of the radicals of peroxide to initiate the polymerization. Do they say what the monomer is? Maybe I can tell you what dissolves the final coating.
New Wave of British Heavy Metal.
Posted 7 years, 4 months ago
I've no idea what the monomer is aside from some sort of alkylamine (like any protein unit), and I suspect that it won't be published material on it anytime soon, since it'll probably be a 'trade secret.' I wish cosmetic companies weren't so tight-lipped about their formulas so people could actually figure out what was in them.
by PiscinePosted 7 years, 4 months ago
Looks pretty fishy to me, and the website looks awfully amateurish for a product that is supposed to revolutionize chemical hair styling. Also, I'd be pretty annoyed that someone with knowledge and talents at the caliber of facilitating organ transplants would spend their time on hair products, albeit theoretically amazing ones.
Sweet freedom whispered in my ear...you're a butterfly...and butterflies are free to fly...fly away...
Posted 7 years, 3 months ago
It's just been released. Someone needs to try it.
by KayvachPosted 7 years, 3 months ago
Piscine wrote: Looks pretty fishy to me, and the website looks awfully amateurish for a product that is supposed to revolutionize chemical hair styling. Also, I'd be pretty annoyed that someone with knowledge and talents at the caliber of facilitating organ transplants would spend their time on hair products, albeit theoretically amazing ones.
You took the words right out of my mouth. It seems like if they had any interest in this field, it would only be for financial gain imo
Olaplex is a silicone polymer:
So not sure why they claim it is not a silicone?
I don't see where they claim it's not though?
by LacyPosted 7 years, 2 months ago
Hi all, I'm kinda new on here and looking at some of the post's The Olaplex looks good and the professional's seem to be getting excited about it ? There all over it on Facebook.
by zackmundsPosted 7 years, 2 months ago
hello people!! i just found this sight as i am getting my olaplex today!!!! I have natural level 4 hair and it takes double processes 40 vol to lift to white. naturally my hair feels like straw. its a very small section currently its pravana neon green. so today when the olaplex gets here i'm going to use 40 vol again and see how well this works. from there I will see how long it takes with my normal hair care regimen to make my hair feel like straw again. I am just as skeptical as all of you im sure. here's hoping! if not well i will have a bald spot right on the front of my head. lol
Swilks wrote: I don't see where they claim it's not though?
They state it on their Facebook page and sent me an email stating that there were no silicones or oils.
Posted 7 years, 2 months ago
I recall some interview somewhere mentioning that the group was originally trying to come up with a UV-reactive silicone treatment to repair hair, but I think they weren't specifically referring to Olaplex. Looking at that patent, it seems like it would require a two-part mixture (a photosensitizer and the siloxane), and some UV treatment would be necessary. It does seem reasonable to me that they could optimize the formula to be peroxide-activated rather than photosensitive, but then, on their Facebook, they constantly talk about how it's only one ingredient. I do recall them offering to provide an MSDS for anyone wanting one, so maybe someone should take them up on that offer.
If it just a silicone treatment, it would be pretty disappointing for use with semi-permanents, though, since it would probably make it more difficult for dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle or trap them inside, making them either fade too fast or much too permanent.
I'm also a bit frightened by the fact that one person on Facebook mentioned that they tried Olaplex with 50 vol, since her client typically required 40 vol, and the directions with Olaplex apparently suggest a stronger peroxide for best results. Some people are also using insanely long processing times, over an hour. Everyone seems to love it, but I feel like they should use a bit more caution since the formula is unpublished.
". I do recall them offering to provide an MSDS for anyone wanting one, so maybe someone should take them up on that offer."
I have the MSDS for the No. 2 and the No.3, but they will not provide an MSDS for No.1
The whole thing is rather suspect - I get the feeling theres gonna be tears. But the feedback is amazing ? SO far....
zackmunds wrote: hello people!! i just found this sight as i am getting my olaplex today!!!! I have natural level 4 hair and it takes double processes 40 vol to lift to white. naturally my hair feels like straw. its a very small section currently its pravana neon green. so today when the olaplex gets here i'm going to use 40 vol again and see how well this works. from there I will see how long it takes with my normal hair care regimen to make my hair feel like straw again. I am just as skeptical as all of you im sure. here's hoping! if not well i will have a bald spot right on the front of my head. lol
Zack you are probably better checking out other ways of how to get to your desired shade. Double processing with 40 vol is one of the worst things you can do, straight out. We can help you with that, if you post on the other sections :D
by LacyPosted 7 years, 2 months ago
Hi, I hears there's a big waiting list for it and You have to to be a professional colorist to get it . Is that correct ?
by SunetPosted 7 years, 2 months ago
Giys, just received my first bottle this wek. I am completely blown away. Ordered the travel kit first just to see if it works, and im placing my order for the big one on Monday. Ive tested it on 10 clients this week, and am still in awe. The condition was fantastic afterwards, managed to push the boundaries of their colour so much further. Testing it on myself next week as well. But so far, I am a huge fan.
by CuddlyCactusPosted 7 years, 2 months ago
Gonna be honest here, even the fact that a bunch of new faces coming in here raving about it makes me suspicious...
I could be wrong, but that smells a lot like people are too close to the product, monetarily speaking...